A Culinary
Tour of Sicily
by Faith Willinger
Article provided by CondeNet, Inc.
Sicily is a crossroads of the
Mediterranean, so expect hints of exotic spices like saffron and
cinnamon paired with local ingredients—lemons, blood oranges,
fresh citron, almonds, capers, and wild mountain oregano. Palermo's
markets, located on the northern coast, are reminiscent of an
Arabian bazaar, with three-wheeled trucks piled high with produce,
vendors hawking goods in a regional dialect, and street foods
for sale (like panelle—fried chickpea flour—gristle
sandwiches, and boiled octopus with a squirt of lemon). The Vucceria
market draws the most tourists, so head to Ballaro'
or Capo, as the natives do. The market
in Catania is also
well worth a visit if you're on the island's eastern coast. You'll
find swordfish with swords, silvery blue sardines in mounds, live
shrimp in shells, and whole hunks of tuna that look more like
beef than fish.
Sicily's western coast (south
of Trapani) is decorated
with windmills, flamingos, rectangular saltpans, and mounds covered
with terra cotta roof tiles. Learn about the production of Sicilian
salt and purchase natural, unwashed, sun-dried sea salt, at Mulino
d'Infersa, off the island of Mozia—a windmill owned and
restored by the Dali family. Those who stay at the Dali's B&B,
La Finestra sul Sale, can breakfast in the windmill.
Head farther west to the island of Pantelleria to sample another
Sicilian specialty—capers. Stop by La Nicchia,
the inspiration behind a line of fine products like capers, caper
paste, zibibbo raisins, raisin jelly, and vegetables under oil
available online. Customer demand prompted Gianni Busetta to sell
his fine ingredients, but they're still no match to a dinner of
fish couscous under the pergola at his restaurant.
The Tasca d'Almerita's
winery, Regaleali, was the force behind a renaissance for Sicilian
wine, and remains the best place to sample the fruits of Sicily's
vineyards. Attend Countess Anna Tasca Lanza's cooking program,
The World of Regaleali, for an introduction to the winery and
Sicilian cooking. Participants stay on the estate, tour the vegetable
garden and vineyards, watch cheese making with milk from Regaleali's
sheep, eat bread baked in a wood-burning oven, and cook with a
down-to-earth countess who cares about culinary tradition. You
can also sample all Tasca d'Almerita's wines at their elegant
resort, Capofaro, on the island of Salina, in
the midst of Malvasia vineyards overlooking the sea.
Osteria Antica Marina
Via Pardo 29
Catania
Tel.: (095) 34 81 97
Closed Wednesday
anticamarina@cataniaatavola.it
Mulino d'Infersa
La Finestra sul Sale
Contrada Ettore Infersa n. 158
91025 Marsala (TP)

Tel.: (0923) 96 69 36
Fax: (0923) 73 31 42
La Nicchia
Via Messina, 22
91017 Pantelleria (Trapani)
Tel.: (0923) 91 29 68
lanicchia@pantelleria.it
Regaleali Estate
Contrada Regaleali 90020
Sclafani Bagni (PA)
Tel.: (0921) 54 40 11
Fax: (0921) 54 27 83
welcome@tascadalmerita.it
Capofaro
Via Faro, 3
98050 Salina Isole Eolie (Me)
Tel: (090) 98 44 330
Fax: (090) 98 44 339
info@capofaro.it
Article published with permission of www.concierge.com